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Saturday, December 19, 2009

suddenly thought of Mexican chocolate last night... still remembered the pot of boiling chocolate sit on a stove in a local cafe in mexican city like Chinese soup or poison old witches made
still served in a cup, it's more spicy and masculine than the mere, smooth, sweet European chocolate
so spicy that i can only sort out cinnamon and peppermint, but it must be more than that.


then i tried google it this morning and someone hv put up some recipe like this





COLLECTION: Mexican Chocolate

From: lynn@engineering.ucsb.edu (Lynn Johnson)
Date: 26 Jul 1993 18:19:14 GMT


Regarding your query about a chocolate beverage that calls for chili pepper as an ingredient. My daughter-in-law said she knows of none that is prepared today, but she will ask her friends and relatives. She is from Monterrey and thinks that there might be a reference to it in the Mexico City area.
She believes that the reference to combining peppers and chocolate refers to Mole, a unique flavoring for chicken or turkey and a very popular dish invented by a nun and based on an ancient festival dish prepared by the Aztecs. I found the following references and recipes in the "Good Food From Mexico" cited below.)

Regarding the topic Mexican Chocolate beverage, I located the following in a nice little paperback book "Good Food From Mexico" by Ruth Watt Mulvey and Luisa Maria Alvarez, 1950 by M. Barrows & Co, Inc. First published by Collier Books, in 1962. This is nice cookbook in paperback and has 350 recipes for unique native Mexican dishes which I have not seen in other cookbooks. I hope it is still in print.

"Chocolate, or cacahuatl as it was originally called, is one of Mexico's gifts to the world. I proved so popular in Europe after the return of the Spaniards that one of the popes forbade its use on the grounds that it was an aphrodisiac. Legend has it that the supreme epicure Moctezuma was the first to discover chocolate ice and sent his runners to the heights of the volcano to bring back blocks of snow over which thick chocolate was poured, whipped, and served as chilled froth. A rare morning treat, Mexican chocolate is different from chocolate drunk anywhere in the world. Part of its unique flavor comes from the mixture of cinnamon and vanilla." p.13

"When the ambassadors of Cortes encountered the Aztec Emperor Moctezuma, he was at the breakfast table shielded by a rich screen. Servants were filing by in endless procession with tempting delicacies. The most frequent offering was a steaming aromatic drink which was called cacahuatl, meaning sour water. The thin beverage made from water and seeds, so valuable that they were used as currency in many parts of Mexico and so costly that only royalty could afford them, was a favorite drink. On first taste, the Spaniards were not impressed, but when they were served the beverage sweetened with honey and flavored with spices and vanilla, they succumbed. In short order the chocolate habit spread to Europe.

There it became inordinately popular. So popular, in fact that ecclesiastical authorities frowned upon chocolate drinking as immoral and provocative of immorality; finally a Papal Bull was issued prohibiting the faithful from drinking it.

Mexican chocolate is not something found upon a shelf with simple instructions to "add one cup of water." It is still prepared with the lovely carved whirling molinillos. These whip into a steaming froth the small cinnamon-flavored cakes, which are melted in hot water and often enriched with egg." p. 28


Champurrado (Chocolate made with Atole)

1/3 Cup nixtamalina, or 3 Tbs. cornstarch
3 cups cold water
1 Tbs. brown sugar
1 Tbs. white sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
2 squares Mexican chocolate, or 2 ounces dark Dutch chocolate, grated
1 tsp powdered cinnamon
2 cups milk

Blend nixtamalina (or cornstarch) with one cup water. Add the rest of the
water and strain through a fine sieve. Pour into a saucepan and bring to a
boil over low heat, stirring constantly. Add surgars, vanilla and chocolate,
a little at a time stirring constantly. Add milk slowly and cook until
the mixture has achieved a creamy consistency. Yield: 5-6 servings.


Chocolate Mexicano (Mexican Chocolate)

2 pounds Soconusco cocoa beans
1 pound Caracas cocoa beans
1/2 cup almonds, blanched, and lightly toasted
1/2 cup peanuts, blanched and toasted
1 Tbs. powdered cinnamon
1 pound sugar
1 tsp. nutmeg
1 clove
1 egg
2 egg yolks

Grind all ingredients except eggs and stand near heat to warm. Add eggs
and, while still warm, shape into little balls the size of an egg. Pat
into pancakes and place on a board to cool. Wrap the chocolate pancakes in
tissue paper and store in glass jars until needed. They keep indefinately
and each one makes four cups of chocolate.


Chocolate Beverage

6 cups milk
3 ounces Mexican chocolate (or dark Dutch type)
1 tsp powdered cinnamon
3 eggs, beaten
Boil milk in the top of a deep double boiler five minutes. Remove from
fire and add chocolate, mixed with the cinnamon, a little at a time,
beating with molinillo or egg beater after each addition. When the chocolate
is thoroughly blended, heat to the boiling point. Place over bottom of
double boiler and add eggs, whipping constantly, until they are
thoroughly blended and the mixture is frothing. Yield: 8 servings.









this one is more informative



Apr 10 2009, 7:53 am by Alex Whitmore
Mexican Chocolate: Rustic, Stronger, Better



Mexican chocolate is the confectionery equivalent of Rodney Dangerfield. I don't understand why, because ever since I first traveled to Mexico and sampled crumbly, simply made chocolate para mesa I've been hooked. I suppose one reason could be that just like European-style chocolate, Mexican chocolate varies greatly in quality from producer to producer. And some of the best stuff can't be found outside Mexico.

One of the main differences between the chocolate traditions of Europe and the Americas is their age. The cacao bean, indigenous to South America, entered Europe only with the Spanish in the 1500s, and it wasn't until the mid-1800s that it was first consumed in bar form. At the time, Europeans applying technology to all sorts of crafts, including chocolate-making. They ended up creating something that, while chocolaty, was very smooth and sweet--completely different from what the American cultures made and continue to make today.
Each shop has its own methods and mills for grinding cocoa and will gladly mix in ingredients like vanilla beans, cinnamon, almonds, and chilies.
The American tradition of chocolate, in contrast, is documented to have existed for at least two millennia. During this time it has become an integral part of many complex cultural and food traditions.

The stuff in yellow hexagonal boxes you find in most larger grocery stores and Latin-American food stores is to Mexican chocolate what the Nestle bar is to European chocolate. All through Mexico (though more in the southern states), there exist small tiendas de chocolate. These shops buy cocoa beans from farmers or merchants and will roast and grind the beans to order.

Each shop has its own methods and mills for grinding cocoa and will gladly mix in ingredients like vanilla beans, cinnamon, almonds, chiles, and corn meal according to the customer's preferences. The best chocolate shops in Mexico are closest to the areas where cocoa is cultivated, particularly in the states of Tabasco, Chiapas, and Oaxaca.

Mexican chocolate offers surprising, rustic, explosive flavors. The unique range--which, with all due respect, you just won't find in a bar of Valrhona--is thanks as much to the high quality of Mexican cacao as to the low-tech method used to turn beans into chocolate. Mexican chocolate is very minimally processed, made quickly and easily without recourse to expensive, computerized equipment.

PHOTO BY ALEX WHITMORE The beans, after having been fermented on the farm and roasted, are ground in a stone mill called a molino. The ground-up beans (now somewhat confusingly called cocoa liquor) are mixed with ingredients like sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon, then ground again into a paste. And that's about it. In the tradition of Mexican chocolate, there is no conching (long, thorough mixing), no intensive refining, no addition of cocoa butter. What you end up with is a chocolate that feels and tastes truer to the bean than its velvety counterparts on the other side of the pond.

So why doesn't Mexican chocolate get its due? Maybe it's the headstrong flavors that overwhelm people accustomed to meek chocolate. Or perhaps it's the unapologetic coarseness that accosts an unsuspecting palate for the first time. But these are the qualities I find most appealing. I've grown to crave the grainy texture so much that, while most Mexicans consume their chocolate as a drink, I eat it straight out of the bag. This kind of chocolate makes me remember that, for thousands of years, chocolate was a food--not a candy.

If you want to try Mexican-style chocolate, Taza Chocolate may not be based in Mexico, but we think our take on flavors like Guajillo Chili and Salted Almond are pretty true to the real thing.









Wednesday, November 25, 2009

一直想不到兩份seminar paper的題目,deadline壓迫著愈來愈近。跑了十五公里後一直想記下甚麼,那已是兩星期前的事了。內傷的腳指還未痊癒,瘀血在皮肉裏發紫,然後變黑。還有練跑時膝蓋的不適,這些村上春樹都沒有提及。跑步的滋味還是獨個兒消受。在高速掠過的十、十一月陶藝班也結束了,從造型到上釉都是稚子之作,這速成班太匆忙了。好消息是新上任的division head讓我們多拿一個月studentship,據說本來剋扣兩個月資助是為了多請一兩個學生。人事問題跟天氣一樣反覆和混亂。礦難、政改、車禍...... 越過地鐵的門,腦海閃現報紙裏小腿夾折的圖。


Friday, October 23, 2009

雜思

1. TA的工作只是出小測試題和堂上點名,空閒得嚇人。大課時三個TA還不怎麼聽書,自己看東西。

2. 因此借了好些閒書。早前跟一個在UST讀MPhil和PhD的part-time講師聊天,談到在ust和cuhk都很受歡迎的某老師。並在同學推介之下,借了這老師的散文集。在不同文章重見瑪依拉,還看到a rose for emily的閱讀經過,還有一些八卦的事(這不正是最終目的嗎 )

3. 這學期三門課的老師都姓陳,陳週一、陳週三和陳週四。

4. 陳週一:也是他的TA,目睹他在UG課和PG課之判若兩人。不怎麼備課,偶有啟發、時而風趣的老師。

5. 陳週三:太勤奮了,講稿寫滿紙,而且能說會道,每週佳句愈來愈多。有時劉海掉下來蓋不住(我們都沒看清楚的)山頂荒原,便擺擺手尬尷而焦急的撥好;有時眨眼特別用力,鼻子上翹,像個緊張的小學生。

6. 陳週四:每堂示範如何閱讀評論,令人自愧和生畏。講課時目光異常銳利,鋒芒畢露。

7. 有關回家路上。以前在中大乘小巴回家,多數沒有同伴。現在在西貢大學,回家的人都要轉幾程車,並且第一步都要先到地鐵站所在地,所以跟同學聊天的機會多了。(這也幾乎是惟一認識新同學的機會)週四課得更有沙田的士團,車廂內嘻嘻哈哈,時間縮短一半。

8. 十月怎麼搞的一晃眼便過去了。



附上近照一張

 

 

 


Monday, September 28, 2009

  不知不覺已經快到中秋了。readings也到了第四週。新的讀書生活很愜意,如果夠自律的話著實能夠看很多想看的書。不過暫時自己還太悠閒了點。

  Matt是我第二個認識的農夫,跟在火車上遇到的Justin一樣來自密西根州。他跟隨老師到UST讀Mphil,八月尾TA workshops中不知談到甚麼,然後知道他不想住在科大,因為他想帶女友來港結婚。他們是在日本參加WWOOF時認識的。

  八月尾跟他一起到太和的有機農墟,跟本地農夫聊天。當然懂英語的農夫不多,我們有幸遇到一個在紐西蘭住了十年的女士,她把銀絲梳成孖辮,很波希米亞。行年七十,但樣子只有五六十歲。言談間,才知道Matt想搬到可以耕種的地方。

  波希米亞女士給我們介紹了香港有機耕作的情況,又答應帶Matt到她的農場參觀,可以的話也會僱用他作助手。前幾天,Matt告訴我他在大埔找到房子了,backyard有塊小小的土地,清理後大概可以種點小植物。

  沒有難聽的美國口音,FB沒有過千名朋友,Matt跟我們對美國人的想像差距太遠。又讀書又種田不會太忙嗎?他說自己還是學業為重,耕種的興趣只能在餘暇實踐。在香港找有機農場的活,為的是讓女友得以謀生。


左是Matt,右是ymca四川團團友阿成。他在ust附近的有機農田工作。

  美國碩士生、日本農女、有機耕作,好像都跟香港風牛馬不相及。只是想到,世界真旳很大,隱密的角落裏有無數人在做不可能的事。也因為世界很大,所以沒甚麼值得孤注一擲。一頭栽進書堆裏早晚會瘋掉,然後我看到中大校外學院價錢相宜的油畫課。






Saturday, September 26, 2009

FORTUNE MAGAZINE Fortune Investor Daily

Ivy League upset - Endowment leader shifts

University of Pennsylvania is the new top-performing Ivy endowment (meaning, it lost the least) . Fortune talks strategy with the chief investment officer.

NEW YORK (Fortune) -- When it comes to college investing, Harvard and Yale's endowments are powerhouses. Yale has posted a 12% annualized return over the last 10 years, and Harvard has returned 9% (versus 1.4% for an indexed stock-and-bond fund).

But with the numbers from last year recently released, there's been an upset -- the University of Pennsylvania came in at number one in the Ivy League for 2009.

It's all relative of course. Every Ivy endowment lost money. Penn just lost the least. Its $5.2 billion endowment was down just under 16% from June '08 to June '09.

Harvard, with the biggest endowment at $26 billion, was down the most, 27%. Yale, with a $16 billion endowment, was down 25%. (Columbia fared a little worse than Penn, losing around 16%, and Princeton, Dartmouth, Cornell, and Brown all lost about 25%, more or less.)

The Quakers actually have the oldest college endowment investing program in the country, founded in 1937. Legendary Vanguard investor John Neff was the chairman of the fund through the 1980s and imbued it with his deep-value investing philosophy that produced relatively low but steady returns.

Fortune spoke with Penn's chief investment officer Kristin Gilbertson about her investing methods. Gilbertson previously worked at Stanford's endowment and, before that, was a pension expert at the World Bank. She joined Penn in 2004 with a mandate to start investing more aggressively in alternative assets. Fortunately, she had other ideas.

Q. What's behind your relatively strong performance?

I'd say three factors led to our relative outperformance. The first is that in April 2008 we sold about 10% of our public equities and moved that money into funds that specialize in distressed debt. We were seeing some early signs of a credit crunch, and we wanted to be waiting on the sidelines ready to gear up. In retrospect it was fabulous decision.

The second thing is we had a historically high allocation to fixed-income, around 15%, and we stayed there even though our long-term goal was closer to 10%. Most of our cash was in T-bills. Fixed income was the only asset class last year to have positive returns.

The third and biggest contributor was moving our equity allocation to large-cap quality stocks. Our public equity managers outperformed the S&P on average by 12%. They were overweight tech, light on financials and energy and materials, and focused on companies with high return-on-equity.

Q. What made you want to cut back on equities and move into distressed debt?

It came out of the experience of our alumni and our board, [like] Howard Marks [chairman of Oaktree Capital Management], who has been chair of the investment board for many years and feels very comfortable with distressed debt.

We'd long had a lot of concerns about systemic risk, were worried about commercial paper, and had moved our cash to Treasuries. At the time, we thought we just were being prudent and cautious. We never thought things could fall apart like they did.

Q. Did you move out of a lot of hedge funds?

We're actually not underweight [in] hedge funds. We're about 25% allocated to hedge funds, similar to our peers. In our hedge fund portfolio, our top performers were the multi-strategy funds and credit-oriented funds. They were very disciplined in putting their money to work. They didn't get overexcited and start buying early in the cycle and blow their money. They were patient and have waited for the right moment to invest. And even those who did get overexcited protected our capital pretty well.

Q. What about private equity?

We are much lighter than our peers in private equity and real estate and other illiquid asset classes. They're only about 12% to 13% of our portfolio.

We were disciplined in avoiding 2005 and 2007 vintage private-equity funds that we thought were going to be poor performers and take years to return capital. There was tremendous pressure on us in 2004 as an institution to catch up with the peer group, as some funds back then were returning 20% or 30% a year.

But we wanted to invest over a full market cycle, not start at the top. We thought back in 2005 that valuations were stretched, there was too much money in the space, the terms on the partnerships were not limited-partner friendly. We focused on a smaller number of managers with a unique edge.

We have one real-estate manager who'd been in our portfolio for several years but had only invested 10% to 15% of our capital. One of our best private equity funds hasn't put a dollar to work in several years. They missed overpaying for assets. Those are great investments. The thing we did best was not race to catch up.

Q. What risks are you still worried about?

I think we have problems we haven't dealt with and still haven't priced in. Like commercial real estate. We don't know to what extent banks have priced in the decline in those assets' value.

Unemployment is near 10%. There are going to be more regional bank failures. The securitization market isn't functioning like it should, and so credit is really constrained.

We've just narrowly averted a crisis here in Philadelphia with the city's budget. That's more than just trash pickup to worry about; we're talking about jobs and employment and GDP growth that's at risk in many cities.

Q. Any reasons for optimism?

The situation is still serious, but we have averted Armageddon. The benefit of intervention has been that the government and FDIC have time to work through those issues and keep the financial system functioning while they work on things. But there's plenty of bad news yet to come. There's no cause for euphoria just yet. To top of page



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